Paragliding guide for exploring Africa
Paragliding is something new for Africa which requires a specific attitude in order to produce a long-lasting positive effect for all.
As it’s practiced mostly by white foreigners the locals may perceive in different ways according to their agenda. For some it might be symbol of progress or a wealthy sport. Others might be suspicious that someone is spying on them or surveying their natural resources. It is often associated with a parachute, balloon or even drone, which are used on warfare and deadly attacks on civilians. It’s good to research in advance the local communities, the types and frequency of crimes and history of violence.
The best approach when visiting a new place is to be open, enthusiastic and positive. Don’t sneak directly to the new takeoff like a partisan and greet all the people on your way, even those who look gloomy and suspicious. Speak with the locals when you approach the flying place. Ask them about the general situation, security, wild animals, and access. Hiring them as porters of your paragliding equipment can save you money for hiring additional guides, but bear in mind that some warrior-type tribes are too proud to do physical work and carrying stuff, so you can hire them only as guides or guards.
Do thorough initial research on where you want to go and explain it very clearly to locals. Often, there are disappointments when locals expect to carry your heavy bag to a lower position but you meant a higher one or changed your mind because there is no clean place for paragliding takeoff.
The price should always be agreed upon in advance, despite the local’s hesitation and suggestion to sort it out later. Even the friendliest person can become disappointed. Be careful with the numbers; fifteen can easily be misunderstood with fifty, or evolve to five hundreds. White foreigners are associated with unlimited wealth, so even five thousands seem fine.
Once the job is done, it’s good to give a tip as a sign of appreciation of the other human being, not just the soulless capitalism and market economy. Of course, don’t tip if the job is halfway done or the prize is unreasonably inflated. 20% or even 50 % tip is fine, depending on the situation, your good will and common sense. Bear in mind that some standard services like bus travel may have twice higher prize for foreigners, so obviously tipping rip-off behaviour is stupid. Every deal should leave a feeling of fairness and mutual appreciation. Be generous, but just!
Appreciate the invisible things! Paying someone to carry your paraglider is not just carrying a bag, but it’s also the availability of this service in this remote place. Their ancestors are the ones who made the paths you’ll be using; they’re the one who killed the wild beast or bandits to make your journey safe. Pricing and tipping should include these too. Try using the people who are the closest to the place you want to explore in order to avoid triggering a neighborhood jealousy.
Direct or indirect begging is common in Africa, especially in big cities, which sustain various social groups and specializations. A white foreigner in a remote village or countryside can be seen as hope or an opportunity. You may hear all kinds of hearthbreaking stories and meet all kinds of crippled, poor and hungry people. Avoid giving money generously and directly as this will exponentially increase begging from next visitors. Often someone tells you they’re hungry. Don’t give money but share some of your food or go to the nearby shop and buy them. Sharing food is a powerful act which can deter even the most aggressive beggars. Don’t lie that you don’t have money, but explain that you’re not so rich and it’s not fair to give only to one and not to give to others. You can use the inherent feeling of belonging to a community and ask the pushy beggar “Are more more special than the others? Why should I give to you and not to others?” If you really want to help locals then give them work as porters or guides, or check which NGO’s operate in this area and give to them. Avoid giving your phone or mail as you might later be asked to send money for various causes like a tragic accident, sponsoring someone’s school fees. In any case, be polite and respectful.
Regarding landings, avoid schools, markets or crowded places. Choose a remote but accessible place, descend remotely upwind, dash downwind, turn and land. Before landing you should put gloves, sunglasses, cameras, phones and instruments in pockets.
After landing, pack quickly, and then do other things like peeing or sending your location. Live location tracking and a trustworthy friend or driver should be enough for your security. Africa is densely populated, and people will come to you even in seemingly deserted places. Locals are mostly curious and exited, especially kids. Greet them enthusiastically. When they form a circle, identify elderlies and leaders, and ask them with gestures to keep a clear space around your equipment. Newcomers may not see what happens inside the circle, and they start pushing and shrinking the circle. A quick-pack sack is very useful to stow quickly your equipment. Later you can re-pack your paraglider properly.
After packing the equipment, engage with locals, entertain them with stories like Scheherazade while walking on your way, carrying your own bag. Ask for directions. Take any motorbike or other transport to move away quickly from the landing mob. Check the price, and if needed, wait somewhere else for another transport. Keep on socializing. Demonstrate that you care about the kids on the road and with gestures tell them to move away, safe from the traffic. If an accident happens then you’ll become part of the problem. Be polite and super patient.
Remote places often lack hotels so camping or sleeping in someone’s house is the only solution. Even domestic animals stay inside because oh hyenas and alike. Again, be thankful that locals exist and you’re not alone in the wilderness. There is a centuries-old tradition to help travelers, especially in tough or desert places. Entering someone’s house is a privilege and you have to be sensitive, polite, and thankful. It’s common to remove your shoes or even wash your feet before entering the house. You may want to compliment the women about the tasty food you’re given, but talking to someone’s wife or daughter might not be appropriate in some cultures. Talking to the naturally curious kids and educating them about outside world is usually pleasing the parents as long as it’s not against local religion or traditions. The gender roles seem unfair, where girls work in kitchen or fetch water while boys, the future warriors or hard workers, may look lazy and free to do whatever they like. This should be accepted by foreigners raised with the gender-equality ideology. The next-morning payment for your accommodation should be done politely. The man of the house may proudly refuse to take money, but you can discreetly hand them to the woman who runs the household with all the costs. The price can be half or the full amount of what you’d pay for a standard hotel with cleans sheets and hot water. Take it as a real-life cultural experience, something which the sterile touristic industry will never provide.
The use of public transport in Africa is an adventure of its own. Generally, there are more travellers than available vehicle seats, so they’re often overcrowded. The drivers are usually dangerously good, working in perfect synchrony with their ticket assistants. White foreigners have a better chance for a ride because of local’s curiosity, hospitality, or hope for extra money. Your paragliding bag often doubles the ticket price, which is fine considering the cheap public transport.
Hitch-hiking is also available. A local with a nice car feels good to give lift to a foreigner, to hear their story and different viewpoints. It’s good to give them something close to the bus ticket price at the end of the trip so check regularly the transport fares, roads and destinations. Speak like a well-informed local, not like a filthy rich foreigner, sinfully tempting the local souls. Insisting on a a lower than the standard price can be offensive.
If you hire a car with a driver then it’s good to tip him at the end of the trip. Their salary is low, and $50 or $100 tip per person at the end of the trip is what would fairly reward their risky job away from their families. The drivers are often more than drivers as they negotiate for you fair hotel or porter prices, help with your wing at takeoff or keep the crowd away after your landing. They have an inherent sense about the security and still would drive through the night to save your ass. Avoid driving and being outside at night. If you land far, then sleep somewhere and travel the next day. Paragliding retrieves are especially exhausting to drivers. Normal touristic trips are usually shorter, predictable and safe.
If you drive your own car then ask locals where you can park it safely. It’s often good to tip someone to keep an eye on it while you’re paragliding.
Regarding officials and paragliding permissions, it’s better to say sorry than may I? Asking a bureaucrat for a permission to do something unknown, suspicious and potentially dangerous would often result in refusal. As paragliding is new for Africa, it’s not explicitly described in the law, and therefore it’s not illegal. However, in countries with ethnic tensions like Ethiopia, you might often be arrested and spend hours in police custody until they’re satisfied that your are not a threat. Obtaining official paragliding permission from government and local tourism offices can save you time, reduce risks and smooth interactions. Some areas may require many flights to create a positive awareness among the local population and reduce the risk of being shot accidentally. The well developed touristic sector in Kenya has made locals accustomed to white foreigners and their strange hobbies, so there is no need of special permissions.
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Remember that you an ambassador of paragliding in Africa and responsible for the next pilots who visit this beautiful lands and people!
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The above recommendations are based on Nikolay Yotov’s 13 years of Ethiopia and Kenya explorations. Other African countries may have different agendas.